Hazy IPA Experiment #2 (Experimental Hops Included)

I have been on a hazy IPA experiment kick as of late. My first recent one was to see what just yeast brings to the table for haze. For this one, I wanted to see what hops bring to the haze table.

I did a pretty extensive break down of what could cause haze in that first experiment, referencing an article by Scott Janish. In that article he goes into how permanent haze comes from proteins and polyphenols latching onto each other. He also mentions that 50%-60% of polyphenols come from the hops. So the more proteins and polyphenols, the more haze…on paper.

He proved this hop polyphenol haze interaction by doing a beer with cryo hops and one with normal hops. As the cryo hops will have a large portion of their polyphenols removed, on paper the cryo-hopped beer should be clearer, and lo and behold, his cryo-hopped beer was indeed clearer.

For my experiment, I am doing something sort of similar, except I won’t be using cryo hops, and my test will be to see if dry hopping at different stages will create more or less haze. There is some protein degradation by yeast, so in theory if you dry hop early into fermentation, and a lot, you can get the haze “to form” before the degradation happens.

This will have a large whirlpool addition, so both beers will probably have some haze, but I am curious to see if one is dry hopped only a few days into fermentation (then again near the end), and the other one dry hopped after fermentation, if one will have a more noticeable haze than the other.

To really try and “minimize” the classic haze inducing ingredients, such as a low flocculating yeast (or the London Ale III), and the addition of flaked oats or anything raw or unmalted (though raw grain or flour may actually help clear beer up as expressed in the article due to the high molecular weight proteins dropping out, along with them having less polyphenols to begin with), I will be using just 2-row grain and WLP001 yeast.

Let the experiment begin.

Video of the brew day:

Recipe:

Batch Size: 1.5 Gallons
OG: 1.065
SRM: 5
Est ABV: 6.5%-ish
IBU: 73
Boil Time: 20 Min

Full grain profile:
(100%) – 2-Row

Mash:
60 Min @ 153F (maybe 160F)

Hops:

Boil:
0.25 oz (47 IBUs) Exp. Stone Fruit (17% AA) @ 60 Min

Hop Stand (200F-180F):
1.25 oz (35 IBUs) Exp. Tangerine (6.5% AA) @ 30 Min Steep

Dry Hops (split):
Fermenter 1: 0.4 oz Exp. Stone Fruit day 2 into fermentation, 0.4 oz when fermentation slows.
Fermenter 2: 0.75 oz Exp. Tangerine (6.5% AA) after fermentation

Yeast:
WLP001

Here’s what went down:

Brewed 2/3/18

2/4/18: Great activity.

2/6/18: Added the first dose of dry hops for the early dry hop one (.4 oz Exp. Stone Fruit).

2/10/18: Added the second dose of dry hops for the early dry hop one (another .4 oz Exp. Stone Fruit).

2/17/18: Added dry hops to a keg for the late dry hop one, and kegged both. Put 10 psi on them for slow carbonation.

Tasting 3/10/18:

IMG_2271 2

The late dry hopped one cleared up 2 weeks after I posted the tasting video. The darker one…I don’t know because I dumped it.

2 Comment

  1. Hello there.

    I replied the same in your latest Youtube video, but will repeat here, in case you are interested in sharing your thoughts about it.

    I brewed ” common ” IPAs with large amounts of hops and never experienced oxidizing until I brewed a NEIPA. For me, the big difference in the process is the early dry hop addition, during active fermentaiton ( day 2-3 ), the so-called biotransformation. Granted, whatever happens during this biotransformation, results in a very special, delicious beer.

    I’ve tried flaked oats, wheat, barley, without any kind of adjuncts – as I suspected the culprit could be the high amount of malt protein in suspension – and nada. Still oxidized. If I brew a normal IPA, all is good.

    But kegging does really help, especially if you try to really minimize oxygen exposure. I would not blame dry hopping for the oxidation, especially the early charge, as any oxygen introduce so early during fermentation will be scavenged. I would however try to go through the process once the beer finished fermenting.

    Cheers!

    1. Jason says: Reply

      This one had more diacetyl than anything, but yeah I have had issues with oxidation for sure with these. Brulosophy commented that it might have something to do with the manganese in the grain, mainly the oats, essentially “rusting” and turning brown, but I think that might be more speculation. There was a study done where oat flour has actually shown to lighten the beer, so there’s that as well. I do think it does have to do with the hops and proteins together being more susceptible to oxidation, but more experiments are needed—at least on my end!

Leave a Reply